Alternative way when you can’t book any accommodation at Koguchi Area

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Keep on walking along Kogumotori-goe (Ukegawa to Koguchi) and Ogumotori-goe (Koguchi to Nachisan) ?

Keep on walking along Kogumotori-goe (Ukegawa to Koguchi) and Ogumotori-goe (Koguchi to Nachisan) ?

BLOG, Kumano Kodo

“Hongu(Ukegawa) to Nachisan” is NOT easy.

Walking all the way to Nachi Shrine is never easy. Please let me explain about the route as I did this trail in 2024 winter.

Kogumotori-goe and Ogumotori-goe

The route from Hongu(Ukegawa) to Nachi Shrine (Nachisan) can be divided into two routes.

The first half is Kogumotori-goe, the route from the starting point Ukegawa to the middle point Kowaze/Koguchi. This Kogumotori-goe is not that tough for those who accomplished “Takijiri – Hongu” route without shortcutting. The average walking time is 4-6 hours and the route is not that hilly.

The latter half is Ogumotori-goe, the route from Koguchi to Nachi Shrine. This Ogumotori-goe is a way harder than Kogumotori-goe or any other routes that belong to Nakahechi route. The distance of “14km” might make you feel “easy”, but, how about it, if the route begins with 5 km forever uphill (elevation gain over 1250m)? Especially after you kept walking for more than couple of days?

For your information, unlike “Takijiri – Hongu” route, Ogumotori-goe has no break away point that you can end walking and take bus, once after you start the hiking. Which means, you have to finish no matter what…

By the way, it took more than 9 hours for me to finish Okumotori-goe (My time is always a little bit slower than average hikers). I started walking at 7:00 am and arrived at Nachisan (the goal) nealy at 16:30. I was exhausted, and no energy was left for me to get the stamp. Instead, all I could do was to ask “Where is the bus stop?” to the monk I saw there.

(In fact, many guests who stayed with us changed their mind after accomplishing “Takijiri – Hongu” route. I think, even “Takijiti-Hongu” is not that easy for normal people like us. Sometimes I have crazy hikers. They are really crazy and be able to walk like running…(*_*))

Booking accommodation at Kowaze/Koguchi is not easy.

Speaking of accommodation booking, the best itinerary to do these trails is as below.

1st night : stay overnight at Kawayu Area, do Kogumotori-goe on the next day.
2nd night : stay overnight at Koguchi Area, do Ogumotori-goe on the next day,
3rd night : stay overnight at a place in Kii-Katsuura Area.

However, the number of guest houses in Koguchi area is extremely limited. If you could book a nice inn in the area, you are already blessed. Go for it!

Usually, nice inns with high reputations are already fully booked, because most hikes are late to make planning (regarding this area, booking 6 months in advance still can be “late”.)

Alternative way when you can’t book any accommodation at Koguchi Area?

So, many hikers who couldn’t book any place in Koguchi Area try to find an alternative way. On this point, I can give you food for thought.

If the possibility of challenging the route is 55 % or more.

In the case you will possibly keep on walking all the way to Nachi Shrine via Koguchi,

1st night : stay at a place in Kawayu Area, do Kogumotori-goe on the next day.
2dn night : stay again at the same place in Kawayu Area, do Ogumotori-goe on the next day.
3rd night : stay overnight at Kii-Katsuura Area.

is recommended.

I recommend staying at Kawayu Area for 2 consecutive nights, because I believe 2 nights stay will allow you relax enough before challenging the hard trail, rather than moving inns day by day.

The example of time schedule for hiking (As of 6^th December 2024)

On the day of Kogumotori-goe, you can walk from your place to the starting point “Ukegawa trail head” from Kawayu Onsen Area on foot. You even don’t have to start early. If only you arrive the goal “Kowaze” by around 16:00, you can catch the local bus at 16:12 coming back to Kawayu Area.

On the day of Ogumotori-goe, you can walk to “Ukegawa bus stop”, where you can take the local bus going back to “Koguchi bus stop”, the trail head for the day. The local bus departs early, like 06:54 at Kawayu Onsen bus stop. If you can catch this bus, you will be able to start hiking at 07:27 at Koguchi bus stop.

(If you miss this bus, you can walk to Ukegawa bus stop by 07:31 to catch the local bus which goes to Koguchi Area. In that case, your starting time will be 08:06.)

Here is the timetable of Hongu ⇔ Koguchi (sorry, I will upkoad shortly)

You can check in advance as you need.

If the possibility of challenging the route is under 55 %.

In the case you are not that confident to be able to keep walking, but in the same time, you would like to keep the possibility that you can try onsite,

1st night : stay overnight at Kawayu Area, do Kogumotori-goe on the next day,
OR move to Shingu area by bus and enjoy sightseeing there.
2nd night : stay overnight at Shingu Area, do Ogumotori-goe on the next day,
OR move to Nachi Shrine by bus and enjoy sightseeing there.
3rd night : stay overnight at Kii-Katsuura Area.

is recommended.

In the case our guests change their mind, I always recommend visiting Shingu Area for sightseeing, instead of keep hiking. Shingu Area has Hayatama Shrine, which is one of the three Grand Shrine along Kumano Kodo. (As you may know, the rest of 2 are Hongu Shrine and Nachi Shrine).

In the case you still would like to walk Kogumotori-goe, you can do it. After you finished Kogumotori-goe, you can take bus from Kowaze bus stop to Shingu station (or any other bus stop which is near from your hotel).

On the next day, if you still eager to walk, you can go back to Koguchi bus stop by bus to accomplish the hiking to Nachi Shrine.

The example of time schedule for hiking (As of 6^th December 2024)

If you can catch the bus of 05:53 Shingu Station, you can start hiking at 07:27 at Koguchi.

The next bus is 07:10 Shingu Station, and you can start hiking at 08:06 at Koguchi.

The good point to move to Shing Area for the second night is, it gets easier to enjoy the city, and also to move to Nachi Area on the next day.

Recommendation Lists for accommodations

Please note: The lists below are the places that more than 2 groups of our guests stayed after leaving Komorian. There are many nice inns and guesthouses that are not on the lists.

Kawayu Area

Guesthouse Ashita-no-mori

This place is where I picked for my Kogumotori-goe challenge. They have 2 indoor onsens, which guests can use privately. Meals they are mainly offering is Hamberg stake of Wagyu, which was SUPER DELICIOUS. By the way, with extra costs, you can choose Wagyu Stake, instead. The owner/manager of this place is friendly and has rich knowledge about Kumano Kodo hiking. You can get appropriate information and useful tips from him. Some of our guests chose this inn said they enjoyed their stay.

Official : http://www.ashitanomori.jp/english/
Kumano T : https://www.kumano-travel.com/en/accommodations/pension-ashitanomori
Booking C : https://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/ashita-no-mori.ja.html

Midoriya

Midoriya is a ryokan style inn. Some of their package offer rooms with private onsen. Some of our guests chose this inn and said they enjoyed their stay.

Official : https://urashimaresortsandspa.jp/wakayama-kawayumidoriya/

Fujiya

Midoriya is also a ryokan style inn. Some of their package offer rooms with private onsen. Some of our guests chose this inn and said they enjoyed their stay.